photos by Dick Palcic

The Barrymore Exudes Old School Vegas Class and Charm

The Barrymore, a Gen3 restaurant situated in the Royal Resort on Convention Center Dr. just a short jaunt from the Strip, opened in 2012, and continues to offer an “old school Vegas steakhouse” vibe. The name is a throwback to the Barrymores’ Steak & Seafood, which was located at the old MGM Grand (now Bally’s) back in the 1970s. The décor features a floor-to-ceiling wine display and a ceiling composed of film reels, which gives a nod to the movie-themed hotel its namesake was housed in. Adding to the old school atmosphere are plush booths, dark wood tables and abstract black and white paintings depicting Charlie Chaplin, James Dean, Frank Sinatra and Bugsy Siegel. 

The restaurant has the luxury of having a team of professionals that includes three sommeliers: GM/Sommelier Brian Duffy, Manager/Sommelier Bernard Erpicum and Manager/Sommelier Heidi Cole. Born and raised in Belgium, Erpicum, has an illustrious background and was first brought to the US by none other than Wolfgang Puck. He, Duffy and Cole combine their expertise in curating the restaurant’s quite extensive collection of 550 wines, 50 of which are priced at $50 or less a bottle. (To see our interview feature on Erpicum, visit https://issuu.com/lvfnb/docs/october_2014 and turn to page 10.)

Chef de Cuisine Leonardo Barrera has been with Gen3 Hospitality for two years and has some impressive credentials, having interned under Craig Hopson at Le Cirque in NYC and his resume also includes time spent in the kitchen of The Butcher, Baker & Cappuccino Maker Cafe (BBCM) in West Hollywood. Speaking of why he likes working at The Barrymore he says, “I have the freedom to cook my heart’s desire and to design the menu with my team.”

Lead Bartender Ingrid Lynch maintains a list of specialty cocktails such as The Barrymore with Gentleman Jack, Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur, orange bitters, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, orange marmalade and orange zest; and more than 100 whiskeys from Kentucky, Ireland, Canada, Japan and Scotland including the 10-year Basil Hayden and Wild Turkey Decades I enjoyed.

During our visit we enjoyed ahi crudo with citrus vinaigrette, cauliflower au gratin with mascarpone/tallego sauce, Brussells sprouts with candied pecan and mustard dressing, and the main event: steaks including 18-oz 28-day dry aged bone-in ribeye, 16-oz KC striploin and 8-oz 21-day wet aged filet mignon, all of which can be enhanced with add-ons of foie gras, lobster, shrimp, crab, bone marrow, bleu cheese, mushroom or roasted onion. Worth saving room for is the Chizu: yuzu scented Japanese cheesecake, crispy meringue, blueberry-lavender sorbet, strawberry-shochu gelée and candied violets; and triple play composed of house-made vanilla, cinnamon dulce de leche and pb&j ice creams on a banana split, banana bread, pineapple, strawberries, peanut palmiers, chocolate sauce and
Chantilly cream.  

Of interest to our readers should be the Industry Mondays, which offers 50% off all food items (must show SNHD card or employment ID); Local Wednesdays (local ID required) with 50% off all wines, including the 50 under $50 wine selection; and the daily social hour from 5-7 in the bar, lounge and patio with an assortment of small plates for $4-$9, $2 beers, $5 well cocktails, glasses of wine from $5-6 and bottles and carafes from $20-$25. The Barrymore is also one of the few dining establishments to offer live music, with the stylings of Laura Shaffer on Fridays, Philena Carter on Saturdays and Nieve Malandra on Sundays, performing in the bar/lounge (but can also easily be heard in the dining room).

The Barrymore is open Sun.-Thu. 5-10 p.m. and 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

Royal Resort, 99 Convention Center Dr. 

702-407-5303 https://barrymorelv.com